Method of laying accessory parts onto the neck portion of garments

ABSTRACT

A jacket or like garment made up from a continuous strip of yielding sheet material by folding, cutting and gluing is provided adjacent to its neck portion with an accessory part such as a collar or hood, made from an auxiliary strip and glued onto the right or wrong side of the neck line of the garment.

United States Patent 1 Pierron 1 Nov. 6, 1973 METHOD OF LAYING ACCESSORY PARTS ONTO THE NECK PORTION OF GARMENTS [75] Inventor: Claude Raymond Pierron, Epinal,

France [73] Assignee: Les Applications Industrielles Vosgiennes SAPIVOG, Bois-LAbbe-Uxegney, France [22] Filed: Sept. 2, 1971 [2]] App]. No.: 177,300

[52] US. Cl. 2/243 R, 2/DlG. 7 [51] Int. Cl. A4ld [58] Field of Search 2/243 R, 243 A, 243 B,

2/DlG. 7

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,673,347 Weiss 2/DlG. 7

2/1954 Gilpin 2/DlG. 7 5/1955 Paterson 2/DlG. 7

Primary ExaminerAlfred R. Guest Attorney-Francis T. Carr et al.

[57] ABSTRACT A jacket or like garment made up from a continuous strip of yielding sheet material by folding, cutting and gluing is provided adjacent to its neck portion with an accessory part such as a collar or hood, made from an auxiliary strip and glued onto the right or wrong side of the neck line of the garment.

8 Claims, 10 Drawing Figures METHOD OF LAYING ACCESSORY PARTS ONTO THE NECK PORTION OF GARMENTS The present invention relates essentially to a method of laying accessory parts onto the neck portion of vestimentary articles of different types in the course of their making up from a continuous strip of yielding sheet material, as well as to the garments manufactured according to said method.

In U.S. Pat. No. 3,500,479 entitled Method of manufacturing jackets and like garments and jackets obtained thereby," are described the successive steps for making up such garments by means of an assembly line along which a strip of yielding sheet material is moved past successive fashioning stations in a continuous or stepwise manner.

The present invention relates specifically to improvements to the manufacturing method described in the above-mentioned patent, aiming to provide the garments made according to said method with accessory parts laid onto their neck portion, such as collars, hoods, capes, yokes or the like, owing to simple operative steps which could be performed easily and at low cost.

To this end, and according to the improved method of the present invention, the front sides of the garment are at first folded back outwardly along folding lines extending parallel to the longitudinal free edges of said front sides, so that the top portion of each sleeve of the garment is spread out over a predetermined height thereby forming a flattened, opened-out neck portion, onto which is laid at least one accessory part; thereafter, a final cutting is performed to shape said neck portion before the so finished garment is separated from the strip by severing.

According to another feature of the invention, the aforementioned accessory parts are made up from an auxiliary strip of yielding sheet material.

According to still another feature of the invention, said accessory parts consists of any fitting to be laid onto the neck portion of a garment, such as a collar, a hood, a cape or a yoke. Besides, said accessory part can be laid onto either the right or reverse side of the garment.

The invention will be better understood and further objects, characteristics, details and advantages thereof will appear as the following explanatory description proceeds with reference to the accompanying diagrammatic drawings illustrating several examples of working the present method, and wherein:

FIGS. 1 and 1A illustrate the successive steps for manufacturing in accordance with the invention a jacket provided with a collar laid onto its wrong side;

FIG. 2 shows the neck portion of a jacket manufactured by the steps illustrated in FIG. 1A;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view taken along line IIIIII of FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 shows the neck portion of a jacket manufactured by a method similar to that illustrated in FIG. 1A, but in which the collar is laid onto the right side of the jacket;

FIG. 5 is a sectional view taken along line VV of FIG. 4;

FIG. 6 shows the neck portion ofa shirt made by the steps illustrated in FIG. 1A;

FIG. 7 shows the back side of a jacket provided with a hood laid thereon by the method according to the invention;

FIG. 8 is a sectional view of the hook taken along line VIII-VIII of FIG. 7; and

FIG. 9 shows the front side of a jacket provided with a hood laid thereon by the method according to the invention.

As shown and illustrated in the drawings, and with particular reference to FIG. 1, a jacket is made from a strip or continuous web of yielding sheet material 1 through a sequence of operative steps which are described in detail in the aforementioned U.S. Pat. No. 3,500,479. Those steps which are shown in FIG. I specifically concern the folding of the edgings or facings 109d, 109g, the gluing along the lines 7d, 7g, the laying of the sleeves 6d, 6g, the folding of the front portions 1d, 1g, over said sleeves, the cutting of the surplus portions 101d, 101g, to thereby form the armholes 11d and 11g (FIG. 1A).

Each edge portion of the main strip 1 of sheet material is glued along a slanting line d, 120g, and is thereafter folded back under the strip 1 to constitute the edgings or facings 109d, 109g. Thereby, said facings are cemented onto the main strip 1 along said gluing lines 120d, 120g, the slant of which corresponds to that of the final cuttings 126d, 126d, (FIG. 1A).

After gluing the centre portion of the ,main strip 1 along inclined lines 7d and 7g, the sleeves 6d and 6g are put in place thereon; thereafter, glue is deposited along further inclined lines 7d and 7'g, and the outer side portions of the strip are folded back over its longitudinal centre portion, onto which the sleeves are aligned along two rows. Through the latter operation are formed the front sides 1d and lg of the jacket (FIG. 1A). The surplus portions 101d and 101g are then cut away by severing along the slanting lines 11d and 11g defining the armholes and along the transverse lines 121d and 121g corresponding to the bottom edge of the jacket.

Thus, at this stage of operation and as illustrated in FIG. 1A, the jackets being manufactured are connected to one another by a transverse centre portion and are longitudinally aligned, laying flat by their lower back side on the working table of the assembly line. Consequently, the front portions 1d, lg of each jacket inthe row are laid over the back portion thereof, with their reverse sides facing upwardly and thus visible. The flap-forming inturned facings 109d, 109g of said front portions locally overlap each other along the longitudinal centre line of the row of interconnected jackets. The sleeves are located between the lower and upper layers of sheet material that is between the back and front sides of the jackets.

Following this stage of fashioning, the two front portions 1d, lg of each jacket are again folded back outwardly, respectively along longitudinal folding lines 122d, 122g, to thereby spread out the top portions of the sleeves 6d, 6g which consequently lie flat in flared condition in the plane of the superposed layers of sheet material. Therefore, the depending sleeves 6d, 6g become locally visible and are freed over their whole height, i.e., in the longitudinal direction.

Thereupon, the neck line of the jacket is fully spread out and freed to'facilitate the easy positioning and assembly of the aforementioned accessory part.

The sequence of fashioning operations illustrated in FIG. 1A is particularly suited for the convenient laying of a collar, which will be described herebelow by way of illustrative example of the working of the method according to the present invention:

The collars 123 are fashioned on an associated assembly line from an auxiliary strip 2a (FIG. 1A) of yielding sheet material. Said auxiliary strip is glued along a broken line corresponding to the jacket neck line, namely along a transverse central section 124 encompassed by two oblique sections 125d, 125g. Said auxiliary strip 2a is thereafter severed along a substantially transversely extending broken line 126 located slightly ahead of the gluing line 124. The collar thus made up is then laid onto the back portion of the jacket; in more detail, the collar 123 is cemented onto the underside, that is the reverse, of the neck line portion of the back of the jacket, by-superposing the edge of the opened, flattened neck line portion of the jacket on the glued portion 126 of the collar 123.

These operations are repeatedly performed for each jacket.

Thereafter, each collar and jacket assembly is severed on the one hand along transverse lines 10, 121d, 121g, and on the other hand along oblique lines 126d, 126g located slightly outwards of the gluing lines 125d, 125g.

The thus finished jackets being now ready for use may be turned to the right side by unfolding and turning back the front portions 1d, lg. The collar 123 is thereby brought into an extended position as a consequence of its folding adjacent to the gluing line 124, and is thereafter opened or spread out to complete the proper jacket configuration as shown on FIG. 2.

It will be readily understood that the above described method allows for a fully automatic fashioning of the jackets or like garments, including the laying of their collars and their severing from one another in the course of their travel along the assembly line.

It will be further underlined that the collars 123, instead of being laid on the reverse side of the back portion of the jackets, could be laid on the right side of said back portion. that is on the upper visible centre portion of the strip 1. This optional working out of the method according to the invention is illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5 of the accompanying drawings:

In this case, the edge 126 of the collar 123 is superposed onto the transverse centre region 129 which is freed upon spreading out and flattening of the neck line of the jacket. After the latter is severed from the strip, its collar 123 is brought into an extended position in the plane of the back portion, by its folding adjacent to the gluing line 124 (FIG. 5). The collar is thereafter opened" or spread out as previously described, in order to complete the proper jacket configuration shown in FIG. 4.

The method according to the invention is not at all limited to the fashioning of jackets, and can be used with profit for making up garments of similar configuration, such as shirts and the like; this will clearly appear from the consideration of FIG. 6, in which is shown a shirt which is provided with a collar 123 made and assembled by the method illustrated in FIG. 1A.

Moreover, the accessory parts to be laid by the method according to the invention may pertain to any type, and by way of example consist of hoods, capes, yokes and the like.

In this connection, FIG. 7 illustrates the laying of a hood on the back of a jacket:

Following the sequence of steps of operation illustrated in FIG. 1, the hood proper is made separately from an auxiliary strip of yielding sheet material similar to the strip 2a shown in FIG. 1A; said hood is provided with a free edge 132 and with assembled edges 131 (FIG. 8), arranged so that it is conformed to the usual configuration as shown. The thus fashioned hood is thereafter laid onto the neck portion of the back of the garment, either on the right side or on the reverse side thereof, as previously mentioned. Subsequently, final cuttings are made along lines 126d, 10 and 126g to complete the fashioning of the jacket provided with the hood such as shown in FIG. 9.

Whatever the nature of the garment and of its accessory part may be, the method according to the present invention could include supplementary steps providing for reinforcements of the assemblies adjacent to the neck portion.

Said method could also include provisions for the assembly of several accessory parts to one and the same garment.

It is now apparent from the above description that the method according to the invention allows for the mass production by automatic assembly lines of various kinds of garments provided with any required accessory part laid on their neck portion. Owing to the simple character of this method and to the ease with which it can be performed by a fast working, automatic assembly line, garments and like vestimentary articles may be produced at low cost from any suitable sheet material such as woven or knitted fabric, paper or the like.

Of course, the invention should not be construed as being limited to the forms of working and to the embodiments shown and described, which were given by way of example only. On the contrary, the invention comprises all the equivalent means, steps and species lying within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. Method of laying accessory parts onto the neck line portion of garments in the course of the fashioning of said garments from at least one strip of yielding foldable sheet material, wherein said strip is moved longitudinally along an assembly line including a working table and several successive fashioning stations, whereby said strip is progressively shaped into a row of longitudinally aligned, interconnected garments each of which includes a back portion lying flat over said working table, opposed front portions folded over said back portion and provided along their longitudinal free edge with respective intumed facings which locally overlap eachother substantially over the longitudinal centre line of said garment, and a pair of sleeves disposed between and assembled to said back and front portions along respective oblique lines extending up to the neck line of said garment, characterized by the steps of folding back said front portions outwardly along longitudinal folding lines parallel to the free edges thereof, to thereby spread out the top portions of said sleeves over a predetermined length to form a flattened, opened neck portion, then laying said accessory part onto said flattened, opened neck portion, and finally cutting away the surplus portions adjacent to said neck portion and severing the thus finished garment from the aforesaid row of garments.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said accessory part is made separately from at least one auxiliary strip of yielding foldable sheet material.

3, Method according to claim 2, characterized in that said accessory part consists of a collar, hood, cape, yoke or like article pertaining to the class of fittings to be assembled to the neck line portion of a garment.

4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in thatv said accessory part is laid onto the right side of said garment neck portion.

5. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that said accessory part is laid onto the wrong side of said garment neck portion.

6. Method according to claim 3, characterized by the additional step of providing means for reinforcing the assembly of said accessory part with said neck portion of said garment.

7. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that several accessory parts are assembled to said neck portion of said garment.

8. Garment comprising a back portion, front portions, a pair of sleeves, a neck portion and a collar part affixed to said neck portion, said pair of sleeves assembled to said front and back portions along respective oblique lines extending up to the neck portion of said garment, wherein, in a predetermined folded condition, said sleeves are disposed between said front and back portions, said front portions lying over said back portions and folded outwardly along predetermined longitudinal folding lines parallel to the free edges of said front portions, the top portions of said sleeves spread out and a flattened opened neck portion being formed, characterized in that said collar part, which is constituted by a central section extending transversely with respect to the longitudinal axis of the garment and by two oblique sections encompassing said central section, lies flat on said flattened opened neck portion of said back portion in the said predetermined folded condition of said garment and is affixed to the said neck portion along a central straight line extending transversely with respect to the longitudinal axis of the garment and along two oblique straight lines encompassing said central straight line and forming with the latter a collar at the upper edge of the garment. 

1. Method of laying accessory parts onto the neck line portion of garments in the course of the fashioning of said garments from at least one strip of yielding foldable sheet material, wherein said strip is moved longitudinally along an assembly line including a working table and several successive fashioning stations, whereby said strip is progressively shaped into a row of longitudinally aligned, interconnected garments each of which includes a back portion lying flat over said working table, opposed front portions folded over said back portion and provided along their longitudinal free edge with respective inturned facings which locally overlap each other substantially over the longitudinal centre line of said garment, and a pair of sleeves disposed between and assembled to said back and front portions along respective oblique lines extending up to the neck line of said garment, characterized by the steps of folding back said front portions outwardly along longitudinal folding lines parallel to the free edges thereof, to thereby spread out the top portions of said sleeves over a predetermined length to form a flattened, opened neck portion, then laying said accessory part onto said flattened, opened neck portion, and finally cutting away the surplus portions adjacent to said neck portion and severing the thus finished garment from the aforesaid row of garments.
 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that said accessory part is made separately from at least one auxiliary strip of yielding foldable sheet material.
 3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that said accessory part consists of a collar, hood, cape, yoke or like article pertaining to the class of fittings to be assembled to the neck line portion of a garment.
 4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that said accessory part is laid onto the right side of said garment neck portion.
 5. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that said accessory part is laid onto the wrong side of said garment neck portion.
 6. Method according to claim 3, characterized by the additional step of providing means for reinforcing the assembly of said accessory part with said neck portion of said garment.
 7. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that several accessory parts are assembled to said neck portion of said garment.
 8. Garment comprising a back portion, front portions, a pair of sleeves, a neck portion and a collar part affixed to said neck portion, said pair of sleeves assembled to said front and back portions along respective oblique lines extending up to the neck portion of said garment, wherein, in a predetermined folded condition, said sleeves are disposed between said front and back portions, said front portions lying over said back portions and folded outwardly along predetermined longitudinal folding lines parallel to the free edges of said front portions, the top portions of said sleeves spread out and a fLattened opened neck portion being formed, characterized in that said collar part, which is constituted by a central section extending transversely with respect to the longitudinal axis of the garment and by two oblique sections encompassing said central section, lies flat on said flattened opened neck portion of said back portion in the said predetermined folded condition of said garment and is affixed to the said neck portion along a central straight line extending transversely with respect to the longitudinal axis of the garment and along two oblique straight lines encompassing said central straight line and forming with the latter a collar at the upper edge of the garment. 